The best bike lights tested & rated, including how much to pay, the features you need, and our pick of the best for every eventuality
The best bike lights are most commonly used during autumn and winter's dark and cold nights. However, they are also essential safety features during daylight hours, and many now feature daytime running modes, helping you to be seen even on the brightest summer days.
Every year, Cycling Weekly seeks out the best bike lights and puts them to the test. This year, our team tested more than twenty-five of the latest lights, evaluating more than just their brightness. Our main considerations include build quality, battery life, and, by far, the most important factor: how the light beam is projected on the road or trail.
In this guide, I’ve compiled a selection of our best-rated bike lights that the Cycling Weekly team has reviewed over the last year. One standout is our top choice for front lights, the fantastic Knog Blinder 900, which will light your way during those dark winter training rides. And for the rear light, you can’t go wrong with our best pick, the Magicshine SEEMEE 300. It offers impressive value and is packed with features!
Whether you are hitting the back lanes and gravel tracks this autumn/fall and winter on one of the best gravel bikes or cruising through the dimly lit streets of the city on one of the best commuter bikes, I have tried to cover all the bases.
Surprisingly bright considering its compact size, the Kong Blinder 900 is only outshone by the Exposure Strada, and rightly so, as the Strada is three times the cost.
Exposure has a strong reputation for the build quality of its lights, and the Strada is no different. It has an immense beam, and the lens provides great side illumination.
The Cateye AMPP 2200 real is the complete package, combining fantastic build quality, a rock-solid mount, tons of power, a great beam, and all at a pretty reasonable price.
The Micro Drive 800+ is versatile and ideal for a wide range of applications. Its low weight and flexibility make it a strong choice for those seeking a compact light with decent power.
The Moon Rigel Max blends smart design with solid performance. Its standout feature is the reversible anti-glare lens, which minimises the risk of blinding other road users.
The Trek Commuter Pro RT front light might not be the most powerful light on test, but the super high-quality lens makes good use of every single Lumen.
Feature-packed and boasting incredible battery life - while being competitively priced, the Magicshine SEEMEE300 is our overall winner and for good reason.
The Knog Mid Cobbers 330-degree visibility gives exceptional viewing angles, and when combined with a super bright 170-lumen flash, you are sure to be seen.
The Topeak Taillux doesn’t pack fancy features, but it does have a 100-lumen flash mode, respectable battery life, and is an all-around solid performer at a very reasonable price.
The Ravemen TR500 is a pretty close contender for being rear-light on test, only let down by its battery life. That doesn't take away from it being the best daytime running light.
The Flare RT is best suited to someone who really cares about size and weight, which limits its battery life. Otherwise, it's perfectly serviceable for both daytime and nighttime use.
The small but mighty Giant Recon HL 100 & TL 100 combo really punches above its weight. For lights that are so small, they are surprisingly bright, to the point of being blinding.
Tiny, robust, extremely bright, and with long burn times, there is little to fault with the Exposure Trace and TraceR light set other than the rear seatpost mount.
Possibly the future of all bicycle lights, the Garmin Varia RTL515 not only adjusts the light's mode but actually tells you where cars are on the road.
The Bryton Gardia R300L is a solid effort but just misses out on beating its main rival, the Garmin Varia. That said, it is considerably more affordable.
Combining camera, radar and rear light, the Garmin Varia RCT715 is the ultimate one-stop shop for bicycle safety, which, as you would expect, comes at a price.
I really liked the Knog Blinder 900 and think there is a good application for it. You just have to be clear about the sort of riding you’ll be using this light for. It’s simply not bright enough for bombing along at Tempo / Zone 3 through the still of the night - but it is plenty bright for riding at an Endurance / Zone 2 pace on even the darkest roads.
For a commuter light, post-work training ride or long-distance winter epics, this is perfectly sufficient. When I’m not really going to be pushing hard, after a day in the office or building a base. Plus, if your commute is mainly street lit, there’s simply no need for a brighter light than this as it doesn’t make a significant difference to what you can see.
With those parameters set out, the features really start to shine. First is the robust silicone band of the mounting bracket - I found this light is super easy to swap between bikes, taking a mere handful of seconds. There is still a quick release between the mount and the light, like all the other models on test - helpful when locking up in town.
The battery lasts a handy two hours on full, and the charging port is USB-C, so there is good future-proofing. The downside is that the battery indicator is as basic as the Magicshine Allty1000, remaining green for the most part and then changing to red at lower power percentages.
A little more expensive than the Magicshine Allty1000, it would make more sense for most people to save money and go for the brighter light. Still, given how easy the Knog Blinder is to attach and detach, along with its USB-C charging port, I can see a commuter situation where I would choose to spend the extra money and go with the less powerful Knog Blinder.
Exposure Strada MK12 RS AKTiv is both powerful and expensive
Our expert review:
As expected, with its 1,450 lumen claimed output, the Exposure Strada certainly puts out a great deal of light - though it’s not the unambiguous winner in this regard. Despite being less than a quarter of the price, I found that the Magicshine’s Allty1000 offers up a brighter central beam than even the Exposure Strada can muster.
As mentioned earlier, this is largely down to the Exposure light spreading itself more thinly, lighting up the sides of the road to a greater extent. This side lumination isn’t going to be an important consideration for all riders, but I find a greater light spread can make for a less disorientating feeling when riding in the dark.
Exposure’s system for controlling the lights with the single, brushed metal button is very neat and well-thought out - but it does take a little while to get used to. Magicshine’s system is more basic, but it is at least intuitive straight out of the box.
It’s a similar thing for the bar clamp - Exposure’s split-clamp system is exquisitely designed, with two CNC machined pieces of metal slotting together to make the hinge and clamp. But it is rather more fiddly and harder to use than the simple - but effective - silicone strap of the Knog Blinder. The display on the rear of the Exposure Strada is a particularly neat feature of this light, displaying as it does the remaining charge of the light down to the minute.
Still, away from all the peripherals, fundamentally the Exposure Strada remains a really, really good light. Like the Magicshine, I was happy barrelling along through the dark at full tilt, with the road ahead of me reassuringly brightly lit.
This model comes with Exposure’s AKTiv tech, which automatically dims the light when faced with oncoming traffic. It’s really quite seamless, with the light smoothly reducing its brightness and equally smoothly returning to full strength - it’s not like switching between the main beam of your headlights and the dipped beam at all.
With the light so bright, it is quite nice and reassuring having it dip when faced with oncoming traffic - you can be quite sure that you won’t be dazzling anyone. Then again, if you aren’t running a mountain bike light with a whopping 3,000 lumens and if you do have your light correctly set up illuminating the road ahead of you, arguably this tech isn’t so necessary. Still, it functions well, is an extra nice-to-have, and solidifies this light as a tech-packed de-luxe model.
One of the most enduring features of Exposure lights, away from the excellent performance of the beams, is their longevity. Like Assos cycling kit, you are paying for a build quality which really lasts and should be considered alongside the (proportionality higher) upfront cost. However, against competition such as Magicshine’s Allty1000, it’s hard to recommend that everyone should spend that much more for Exposure's quality. But if you have the money to invest, you won’t be disappointed.
Our expert review:
The new Cateye Ampp 2200 maintains the sleek, durable, and functional design of its predecessors, making it a reliable option in the premium bike light market. Its alloy body houses both the LED array and a 5000mAh battery, offering a longer, narrower profile that looks sleeker than some of the bulkier lights on test. Weighing 211 grams, it's the second heaviest light in this lineup, after the Exposure, but the extra weight comes from its larger battery capacity.
Mounting is secure and easy, with Cateye’s jubilee clip system fitting a variety of handlebar setups. The light itself clips into the mount securely and can be released in seconds. Extra brackets retail for just £6, making it affordable to share the light across multiple bikes or users in a household.
The Ampp 2200 offers seven modes: a turbo boost, three steady beams, and two flashing modes. At full 2200-lumen power, the light runs for 60 minutes, extending to 90 minutes at 1500 lumens and up to 60 hours on a daytime flash. Mode switching is simple with a single press for most settings and a double press for turbo mode.
The beam dispersion is excellent for both dark roads and general use, with a strong centre and good peripheral visibility. The light’s lens cut-out and side reflectors ensure visibility from all angles, adding an extra layer of safety for road users.
Competitively priced, the Ampp 2200 offers great value compared to its main rivals. It’s versatile, mounts securely, and is well-built. However, its IPX4 waterproof rating is slightly lower than some rivals, which may be a consideration for those riding in very wet conditions.
Our expert review:
The Lezyne Micro Drive 800+ is the smallest, lightest, and least powerful light in our most recent test, offering an interesting contrast to its heavyweight competitors. With a maximum output of 800 lumens, it’s just enough for riding on unlit roads and paths. Despite its modest power, the Lezyne punches above its weight, weighing only 133 grams, including the rubber strap mount, making it barely noticeable when attached to the bike.
Its compact size is a major advantage for commuters or those who leave their bike unattended, as it's easily removable and small enough to stow in a pocket. The Lezyne features a straightforward six-mode system, including three solid beams and three flashing options, all accessible through a single button. On full power, the light offers a two-hour runtime, which is sufficient for commuting or a post-work ride. In its most economical mode, it can run up to 35 hours, or 30 hours on the 700-lumen day flash setting.
The build quality is solid, with an alloy chassis and a plastic rear cap. While it doesn’t have the same premium aesthetic as higher-end models like the Cateye or Knog, it’s functional and well-designed. The only notable drawback is the removable charging port plug, which could be easily misplaced.
Overall, the Lezyne Micro Drive 800+ is a well-priced, versatile light that is ideal for a wide range of riders. Its lightweight design, solid performance, and easy portability make it a strong choice, particularly for commuters or those seeking a compact light with decent power.
Our expert review:
The Moon Rigel Max 1500 is a well-rounded bike light with thoughtful features. Offering a maximum output of 1,500 lumens, it sits comfortably in the middle of our test group in terms of brightness. Despite its power, the light is compact, weighing only 150 grams (without a mount), and comes with three versatile mounting options: a universal rubber strap, a GoPro-style mount, and a helmet strap. However, its size may be slightly bulky for helmet use.
Build quality is decent, with a sturdy metal casing and tactile buttons. While the seals around the charging port and casing aren’t as tight as some competitors, the battery life is impressive. The Rigel Max runs 1 hour 30 minutes on its highest setting and up to 56 hours in flashing modes. It also features intelligent energy-saving functions, such as automatically turning off during the day or when stationary.
The light offers six modes - two solid beams, two flashes, a daytime flash, and an SOS flash. Operation is straightforward, with a double press to turn on, a single press to switch modes, and another double press to toggle between solid beams. The beam pattern is well-balanced, combining a strong spotlight for road visibility with softer, peripheral lighting to prevent dazzling others.
A standout feature is the reversible anti-glare lens, designed to minimize blinding other road users, regardless of how the light is mounted. Overall, the Moon Rigel Max 1500 blends smart design with solid performance, making it a versatile and powerful choice for cyclists.
Trek's Commuter Pro RT front light is well-designed to maximise the lumens available
Our expert review:
More so than any of the lights on test, the lens of the Trek Commuter Pro RT is particularly well designed. It makes more effective use of the lumens it has available, focusing them from the area about two meters in front of your front wheel, and casting forwards from there.
It’s an impressive light, and performs markedly better than the Knog Blinder (claimed 900 lumens). However, the comparison with Magicshine’s Allty1000 front light is rather less flattering, with the Allty1000 providing a more intense and clearer white light which is easier to see by - even though both lights have an equal claimed lumen count of 1,000. The Magicshine light is also less than half the price and has a longer claimed battery life on full, too.
Still, the Trek Commuter Pro RT does have a few neat features which could reasonably tip the balance for someone’s buying choice. I like the very clear and simple battery gauge, the fact that it charges with USB-C and the split clamp mounting system can be transferred between bikes without tools (although it isn’t as quick and easy as Knog’s system on the Blinder 900).
In use, the strength and pattern of the Commuter Pro RT’s beam meant that I was happy tapping along at Tempo / Zone 3 down unlit roads, although a solid Threshold / Zone 4 effort and seated VO2 Max intervals were a bit fast for the amount of road you can see ahead.
The two orange side lights are a neat touch for increasing side-on visibility at tricky junctions and roundabouts. No doubt it’s better having those extra lights than not having them, but with a winter jacket and bulky winter gloves, there’s quite a range of angles from which the lights will be obscured.
In all, the Trek Commuter Pro RT is a good light with lots of neat little features and functionality. It is also a fair chunk more expensive than other lights which outperform it in several key areas, meaning it’s not a first recommendation.
Magicshine's SEEMEE300 is packed with tech including an inbuilt motion sensor
Our expert review:
The SEEMEE300 is an incredibly tech-packed light - as well as hitting a competitive price point. It’s really very impressive what Magicshine has done with this light, so let’s run through each of the features in turn.
First, the fun stuff. An increasing number of rear lights have these features, but Magicshine isn’t to be left out - the SEEMEE300 has an inbuilt motion sensor, with the light shining its full 300 lumens when it senses the bike is braking (the highest ‘constant’ setting is 100 lumens).
In addition to that, it also shines a circle of light onto the ground behind you, boosting visibility from every angle. The main light itself has a side cutout to increase the angle of visibility to 260 degrees - which is high in itself, although not the highest.
The mounting system is one the best I’ve ever used, with a thick silicone band that holds the light firmly in place (and on a variety of seatpost depths). But it also has a quarter turn mount, making it quick and easy to remove the light when wearing gloves in the winter - whether taking it in for charging, or when popping into the shops.
Then there’s the battery life, which is on another level. Even on the highest ‘constant’ setting, the claimed run time is six hours. When on the ‘low’ setting - which is still 20 lumens! - that goes out to a whopping 40 hours.
For me, there is one slight idiosyncrasy in that the light can sense the ambient light condition and adjust its beam accordingly - but the light goes brighter at night and dimmer during daylight. Personally, I’d want the brighter light in the daytime in order to stand out better - a light doesn’t have to be super bright to be highly visible at night. On the other hand, at least the daytime flash setting does make full use of all the 300 lumens.
In all, it’s a highly impressive light with a host of clever features and nice touches. The fact that the price is so competitive makes it the first choice in most cases.
Thedistinctive looking Knog Mid Cobber rear light
Our expert review:
The Knog Mid Cobber has a few really nice features which make it stand out against the crowd - but it also has a few limitations which put it out of the running for ‘best overall’.
In terms of the good, the Knog Mid Cobber has the widest angle of visibility out of all the lights on test - the distinctive curve of this light is instantly recognisable as a Knog, and it gives a whopping 330 degree range of visibility directly from the light.
The silicone O-ring is stretchy, strong, and can easily accommodate a range of seatpost depths. Being an O-ring, it’s hard (for me, impossible) to remove the light without removing your gloves first. But once you do it is quick to swap between bikes.
Finally, the Mid Cobber has built-in USB charging, so you don’t need to remember a cable - but you do need a USB port to plug it into and the light itself is pretty bulky. For some people cable-less charging is a must-have deal breaker - for me, I prefer USB-C and the flexibility of a cable.
In terms of the not-so-good, the battery life isn’t great. The highest constant setting is 75 lumens (the full 170 only happens in some flashing modes) and this only lasts for two hours. Even the lowest constant setting at 35 lumens - which is still brighter than I think is necessary - is only 3.5 hours.
The flash settings do give you longer run times but, when riding at night, in many countries it’s a legal requirement to have at least one constant rear beam. And with good reason, it’s harder to track the motion of a vehicle/person when there isn’t a fixed source of light. So those short run times are a bit of a shame.
The price is also higher than the excellent Magicshine SEEMEE300, and with that light being so good in so many respects, most people will get better value from the cheaper option. But, if you like the wide visibility angle and the cable-less charging, the Knog Mid Cobber could be an option for you.
Topeak's Taillux 100 is a great value rear light
Our expert review:
The Topeak Taillux 100 doesn’t have the bells and whistles of some of the other lights on test - but it does the fundamentals very well, and comes in a little cheaper as a result.
The maximum brightness is 100 lumens and the burn time is listed as three hours on that mode, which is respectable, though not class-leading. In the arms race for ever more lumens, to have 100 on a rear light is pretty standard these days. But it is well beyond what is really necessary for being seen - during testing I never felt the need to run the light on full blast.
Fortunately, there is a mode which sees the three centre lights stay constantly lit, but the bright outer ring blinks in a sequence. I really like this sort of setting, as you get the constant beam which makes it easier for people in cars to track your movement - but you also are more likely to catch their eye with the flickering light. Even better, this bumps the battery life up to a healthy 10 hours.
The mounting is via a silicone band, which accommodates seatposts of varying depths, as well as making it easy to swap between bikes. You can also use the light with a clip, which makes it possible to attach to the light loop of a saddle bag or similar.
Charging is via USB-C which is nice and up to date. And the viewing angle is 220 degrees, which is respectable, although again not class leading. There are no features such as brake or ambient light sensing. On the other hand, it’s light and a bit cheaper. If you don’t need the extra tech, this is a great option.
Raveman's TR500 excels as a daytime running option
Our expert review:
The Ravemen TR500 is a pretty close contender for being best on test. Starting with the best stuff, the ‘warning flash’ setting is exceptional for daytime riding. This chucks out a whopping 500 lumens with an eye-catching and rapid flash - if you’re concerned about riding at sunset, or are just after the maximum visibility at all times, this is an excellent option.
Like other lights on test, the maximum lumens for the constant beam are 100 and with a 4.5 hour runtime on that setting, it’s second only to the Magicshine SEEMEE300. But with 20 lumens of the ‘low’ setting are plenty, and on that setting you get a hefty 17 hours - again, second only to Magicshine.
Although it doesn’t have an ambient light sensor, the Ravemen TR500 light does have an accelerometer and I like how it brightens when you brake. The light attaches using a silicone strap, which I found simple and straightforward to use, making it easy to swap between bikes and accommodate aero seatposts. The light also charges by USB-C.
Were it not for the Magicshine SEEMEE300 with its longer battery life - and also its floor-directed beam for full 360 degree visibility, the Ravemen would be top of this list overall. But even so, that super-bright 500 lumen flash means that this is hands down the best daytime running light on test.
Bontrager's Flare RT is compact but still has plenty of features
Our expert review:
This is a great little light with a solid range of features. Despite its diminutive size, it can still put out up to 90 lumens - although only on the flashing setting. With a constant beam, that brightest setting is 25 lumens and a run time of only 4.5 hours.
This goes out to 13.5 hours on the lowest light setting, but that only comes to five lumens - which is a little too dim for me! In a more urban setting, I don’t feel like that’s bright enough to really stand out against the street lights, traffic lights and the head and tail lights of passing traffic. On darker lanes without so much other light pollution, arguably those five lumens stand out better, but with the higher speed of traffic on country roads, I don’t feel this is sufficient.
So the 4.5 hour run on ‘high’ is basically as good as it gets for night riding - but for commuting duties and evening rides, that is all that’s needed. The daytime flash mode is pretty good with those 90 lumens and a six hour run time, at least considering the size of the light.
And the size of the light is essentially what this all comes down to. Either you want a smaller and less obtrusive light, and are happy to put up with less battery life, or the shorter battery life is going to be a sticking point and you’ll prefer something larger with more juice.
The attachment system is with a silicone strap, but there’s also a quick-release lever, making it a bit quicker and easier to take the light off if you’ve stopped off somewhere or just need to take it in to charge. It’s not as easy as a quarter-turn mount - with gloves it’s a little fiddly but do-able. The charging is through micro USB, which is a little old-fashioned at this point, but with so many devices still using the standard, it’s not dead yet.
In all, this light suits someone who prizes size above all else. The brightness is perfectly serviceable for both daytime and night-time use, it’s just the battery life is a little low and there isn’t much in the way of extra features - such as an accelerometer or visibility boosting from a range of angles. At the same price as the Ravemen TR500 and the Magicshine SEEMEE300 - as well as being more expensive than the Topeak Taillux 100 USB, it’s a pretty specific use-case where this one comes out top.
The ViZ300 is certainly bright but also a little fiddly to mount
Our expert review:
Bright enough for all applications and a good choice of modes makes this a great choice for most serious riders. We particularly like how the ViZ300 has a 100 lumen mode lasting eight hours, helping to make long winter rides that much safer. Alternatively, 45 hours on a single charge will keep most commuter users satisfied without charge for well over a week.
Three powerful LEDs make up the lighting array for this light. CatEye has incorporated good lensing and a nice clear case allowing for viewing angles of 300 degrees - so no blind spots for tailing drivers. Not that it comes on all too regularly, but the light also features a low battery light in the function button so you can see when a charge is needed.
The Giant HL 100 and TL 100 Combo lightset is simple and easy to use
Our expert review:
The Giant Recon HL 100 and TL 100 are very simple to operate, with no long presses or counting flashes to determine brightness level or anything like that. You just cycle through the five modes by short-pressing the on/off button and it’s the standard long press for on and off.
The switch, however, is a small oblong that needs direct pressure in exactly the right place. A protruding, rubbery switch would be easier but it would wreck the cube’s symmetry. I can live with form over function this time, but sometimes it takes a couple of attempts to activate it, especially with gloves.
The Tail-Light (TL) is surprisingly bright – blinding even – for such a small light. It’s really all you’d ever need from a rear light. The Head-Light (HL) is fine for streetlit commutes but is not enough for seeing on unlit roads – it is strictly a ‘be-seen’ light.
Landing in the middle ground price wise, they're well designed and have good functionality. Perfect for a lightweight, versatile, good-looking, commuter light set with a very useful daytime mode.
The Lezyne Micro Drive 600XL and KTV Pro light set is solid and secure
Our expert review:
At 600 lumens, the Lezyne 600XL packs a punch and isn't far off being a 'seeing' light.
The front 600XL uses a permanently attached rubber strap to wrap it tightly around the handlebar but it also rotates on the clamp allowing you to fit on a fork leg or any odd angled position. Despite being used on the fork leg for long distance riding, we had no issues with the light remaining steadfastly in place.
The LEDs are arranged in a side-by-side pattern and push out a decent spread of light that in most modes works as a flood light to light up the road ahead evenly. Only in the two brightest modes does it take on more of a spot pattern, highlighting a smaller but brighter patch of the road ahead. But we can attest that even the lower flashing modes are bright enough to light up road signs from over five hundred metres away easily.
With regards the rear KTV unit, mounting is reliant on the thick rubber strap and slightly compliant rear recess on the light body. This recess is a little too narrow and the rubber a little too stiff to hold it tight against a standard seatpost. This does result in the light twisting off centre during a ride and reduces rear visibility. Something you will need to keep an eye on.
Exposure Trace lights are a long term favourite in the Cycling Weekly office
Our expert review:
The Trace and TraceR lights are the smallest and most featherweight units Exposure produces and at first glance it's hard to imagine the sort of performance they are capable of. But just like David against Goliath, size isn't everything.
Tiny, robust, extremely bright and with long burn times, there really is nothing to fault the Exposure Trace and TraceR light set. Ideal for everything from commuting to being a backup set for longer trips, this is a set of lights that will provide reliable service for many a year.
The beam pattern and visibility for both lights are exceptional. The front throws out a good spread of light and in flashing mode easily lights up road signs for a few hundred metres ahead and the rear daybright mode is searingly bright. Both lights also have an extended lens that enables them to throw out a good level of side visibility, extending the safety levels.
Charging is simple and it takes just 1.5 hours to charge each from empty. A USB charging port is located under the rubber band that encircles the light. It can be a bit fiddly to pull it out of the way but you soon get used to the process. We’re yet to have any water ingress so despite its flimsy appearance it works really well.
Garmin Varia RTL515 comes loaded with safety features
Our expert review:
Garmin's Varia RTL515 has four light modes, 65-lumens under the hood, and has a viewing angle of up to 220-degrees, but that's not what sets this light apart.
Hidden inside this sleek looking taillight is a rear-facing radar which can pick up cars from up to 140m / 459ft away, and when connected to a Garmin, Wahoo or other brand head unit, alerts you to and tracks cars as they approach. It may sound like a gimmick, but in our experience, it is surprisingly accurate, and often picks up cars before our ears do.
The radar also means that the light can change its lighting pattern as a car approaches, flashing more brightly and more rapidly to make certain that you're seen.
There's a robust mount that can be converted to fit different shaped seatposts and an app to configure the light and which acts as a head unit if you don't have a bike computer.
The R300L is the first rear light and radar unit from Bryton. A built in G-Sensor can detect braking and change the light output accordingly, but it is the addition of radar that is the most interesting development.
The unit can detect vehicles from around 150m behind, alerting you with a bleep as well as a visual change to the side bar on your head unit display, then, as the car approaches you, an icon moves up the side bar until it is near the top of the screen. Then you know that it is a short way behind you. Once the 'threat' has passed you or turned off, the unit bleeps again and the side bar turns green. Multiple vehicles can be displayed on your display too.
The great thing about this technology is how surprisingly useful it can become. You can concentrate on the road conditions more and then look down when it is appropriate to do so, having been alerted by the bleep. Then a look behind can be usefully deployed as necessary.
We found that the light is good, albeit not as great as the class leading lights, and it also has decent battery life. The light can be turned off completely, as it is able to be run solely as a radar unit, with a 24 hour battery life in that mode. The seat post bracket feels nicely secure and it locks the light on well, and conventional round, aero and D-shaped posts are catered for. It is priced very keenly for what it offers.
The Varia RCT715 is Garmin's range-topping integrated rear light, camera and radar unit – all in one. It's an incredibly versatile solution for covering your safety needs.
The rear-facing radar keeps you informed on the traffic situation behind, notifying you about cars from up to 140m / 459ft away. Our tester was surprised at how quickly he came to rely on its information and how just useful it proved.
The rear light itself has four modes, but it will also automatically change its behaviour when it senses a car approaching from behind and will change its flash pattern to further alert the driver. Our tester found the Day Flash 65 lumen setting best for daytime use and Solid 20 lumen mode for night riding.
On top of this, the camera films with a good quality at 1080p, which easily enables you to read the number plates of passing cars.
Several methods exist for testing bicycle lights, the most common of which involves measuring a light's power output. Typically, this involves using an illuminance or lux meter, which provides Lumen and Lux output values. Conducting these tests requires a controlled environment to ensure repeatable conditions, which I currently lack access to, though I hope to pursue this testing in the future. Most brands have likely conducted these tests already, and I trust their accuracy.
When I evaluate a light, I assess its performance during rides on the road and trails. The best way to determine if a light suits your needs is to use it in real-life situations. First and foremost is build quality; can it endure drops or tolerate being stored in the bottom of a work bag? Is the mount sturdy enough to handle bumps at the bike rack? Is it easy to install and remove for use on different bikes? I also consider how long it takes to charge the light, as well as the duration of that charge. Additionally, I examine its performance in varying weather conditions and whether there’s a noticeable decrease in functionality when temperatures drop.
The crucial test for me is determining whether I am visible and can see well. To achieve this, I consistently repeat the same test with each light. I also ride the same route under similar conditions and times to maintain a constant traffic flow, providing a solid baseline. This involves riding in towns or cities, as well as on quieter lanes and trail tracks.
For more information on how we test all our products, visit our How We Test page.
Joe is an ex-racer and prolific bike rider. You might wonder how that makes him knowledgeable about lights. Joe is more than happy to regal stories of the days grinding away in all weathers and at all hours to squeeze his training in and around life and work. Up at 4 am or not back till 11 pm, come rain or shine, Winter and summer. Meaning that Joe relied heavily on the best bike lights to see him safe and through those dark hours on the bike.
We’ll look at specialist lighting options in a moment, but for now, let’s assume you’re a road rider or commuter who wants to see and be seen when the sun sets. What do you need to consider when buying your lights?
Almost all modern cycle lights use LEDs rather than old-school bulbs, and due to technological advancements, these can be blindingly bright.
Of course, light power is an important part of your buying criteria, but don’t let that be the be-all and end-all. Beam shape and the effect of the light lens can make a huge difference — we’ve seen lights of supposedly lesser power trounce rivals when it comes to real-world performance.
Even if you plan on using a light to see, it will still help other road users see you.
If you’re riding on lit roads, an ultra-bright constant beam may be unnecessary, and a flash function at the front may be perfectly adequate.
Though the amount of power you'll need for your front light will vary depending upon where you're riding, no cyclist should be without an adequate rear bike light. Rear bike lights will usually emit around 30 lumens or more, and generally have several modes: steady light, flashing, or a combination between the two. All options are safe and legal, but a flashing mode will usually help to save battery life and attract more attention.
Recently we have been introduced to the idea of using a rear bike light even in the daytime, because it will help drivers pick you out from behind. It's also a sensible idea to double up on rear lights. Though it's unlikely, you won't be quite so aware if your rear bike light fails as you would be in the case of a front beam, so having a back-up fitted can provide extra security and peace of mind.
For your rear light, the flash function is ideal. But if you’re a bike commuter, with both front and rear lights also consider how effective the lamp is in terms of side lighting, as this will make you more visible from more angles and help avoid the "sorry, I didn't see you" excuse from a turning vehicle.
It’s still generally a case of the brighter the better, but you also need to consider other qualities that will make your life easier. Look to see how many flash settings the light has; what the run times will be on a single charge or one set of batteries; and see if it has a rechargeable power source.
In this case, check if it needs its own special charger or if it can be recharged via USB, which aids convenience immensely. Some lights even have a helpful gauge showing how much power they have left.
For most lights above we've quoted a battery life range. All lights will have multiple modes, so the range is from the most intense to the most economical option.
Most lights will burn through the battery quickly in their highest mode. For fast riding on tricky off-road trails you might need this, but it's worth dialling down the light intensity if you're on easier terrain or tarmac. Your eyes will quickly acclimatise to the lower light level, while on their top output many bike lights can be as intense as a car headlight and dazzle oncoming traffic.
Some lights will dial down their intensity if they start to get too hot or as the battery begins to run down and so extend battery runtime.
Flashing modes give you the longest battery life. They're a good option to up your visibility, particularly at the rear and when riding in daylight, but unless there's good street lighting you'll probably want to run a constant mode at the front at night, which will reduce runtime. It's why front lights usually have larger capacity batteries than rear ones.
It's worth looking at the quotes runtimes in different modes when selecting a light.
New bikes are sold with reflectors (and you can read in detail about the legal requirements relating to reflectors here) but regardless - if you're riding at night, using a proper set of bike lights is really an essential.
In the UK, law regarding bike lights is governed by the Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations, first published in 1989 but amended six times since, which say that as well as your pedal reflectors and rear reflectors (the side and front reflectors aren’t actually a legal necessity) night-riders will also need lights front and back.
The lights have to be mounted on the bike centrally or to the offside, positioned up to 1.5m from the ground, and conform to British Safety or EC standards.
Both front or rear lights can be flashers, but if so they must emit at least four candela. “But bike lights tend to be rated in lumens or Watts, what’s a candela?” we hear you cry.
It’s not a particularly easy subject to explain, and they’re not directly convertible units. But simply put: as long as you buy decent quality bike lights, fit them properly, and remember to switch them on, the law shouldn’t be a problem.
In the US, the law requires riders to have both active and passive lighting — active lighting is well...lights, while passive lighting is things like reflectors and reflective clothing.
The exact wording of the laws varies from state to state, but the summation of it all is that between sunset and sunrise or in conditions of 'limited visibility' you must have a white light pointing forwards, and a red light pointing backwards.
Straßenverkehrs-Zulassungs-Ordnung, or stVZO for short, is the road traffic licensing regulation for German road users. These regulations include specific rulings on how bicycle lights must perform. This requirement is designed to prevent unnecessary glare or distractions to other road users when in use.
This is done by having strict specifications for the beam pattern. The beam patterns of stVZO lights will have a flat top and be focused towards the ground, slightly ahead of you on the road. Overall, the pattern looks a bit like an upside-down flat-topped pyramid. There are also regulations regarding the minimum output, colour, and warmth of lights.
A depiction of the typical stVZO approved beam pattern
Introduced over the last few years to bicycle lights, smart or radar lights include sensors that can spot cars and trucks approaching—generally from behind, but some also offer this feature for front lights. This is done in a couple of ways, using either light sensors or radar signals.
Once movement is detected, the light automatically adjusts its mode or setting to make you more visible. Depending on the manufacturer,, this is done in different ways, but generally, it is done by increasing the light's brightness or changing or adding a flashing pattern.
The standout performer in this market is the Garmin Varia, once linked with a Garmin computer, which visually represents how close and fast vehicles are approaching and adjusts the light to make you see.
Lux and Lumen, frequently confused, provide distinct metrics for assessing light performance. Lux quantifies the amount of light illuminating a surface, while Lumens assess the total light emitted in all directions from a source over a specific distance.
An effective bicycle light should achieve a proper balance between Lux and Lumens. Cyclists need the ability to illuminate specific objects such as vehicles, pedestrians, roadside furniture, or even trees and animals. Additionally, it's essential to have sufficient brightness to clearly see the surrounding area while riding.
Neither option holds greater significance, and lighting should not be chosen based solely on these criteria.
All bike lights will come with a mount to fit them to your bicycle, these will generally be placed around the handlebar and the seat post. It depends very much on the manufacturer, but sometimes this is a separate mount that needs to be fitted before mounting the light. For some, the mount is part of the light body and these typically are the more flexible ones that use a rubberised strap system.
The light should be positioned at handlebar height or approximately halfway up the seatpost. Numerous mounting options are available for attaching lights to fork legs, racks, and frames, all of which are valid placement locations.
Always position the light on the side of the bike closest to the traffic. For UK riders, this means placing it on the right side; for US or European riders, it should be on the left. Doing so provides drivers with a clearer reference for your width and theoretically grants you more space.
A straightforward set of front and rear lights will often do the trick for the everyday bike commuter in urban environments. However, investing in the best lights you can afford is definitely a smart choice, and it’s a good idea to add an extra pair of inexpensive emergency flashers for extra safety. If you plan to venture off-road or ride on dark back roads, it’s essential to choose stronger, more powerful lamps with wider beams to keep you safe and seen.
Many riders also love to enhance their setup with helmet-mounted lights, which can be really effective! These lights can shine in the direction you’re looking, providing added visibility. However, remember that they should complement the lights on your bike and not replace them as your sole light source.
Dynamo lights are regaining popularity, especially among ultra-endurance and gravel racers. These racers choose them for their reliability and to minimize unnecessary charging stops.
Some dynamo light setups even allow you to charge other devices, such as top bicycle computers or phones. However, finding the right hub and light combination to meet your needs might require some trial and error, and installation can be somewhat tricky.
IPX is the internationally recognised standard used to determine the amount of protection a device has against the ingress of typically water or dust. The standard also helps to understand whether something is just is 'weather-resistant' or 'waterproof.
The higher the IPX rating number, the greater the protection against ingress. The list below lays out what each IPX rating means and guides you on what level to look for in your next bicycle light.
• IPX-0 No protection
• IPX-1 Protected against condensation or water falling vertically
• IPX-2 Protected against spraying water when tilted up to 15 degrees vertically
• IPX-3 Protected against spraying water when tilted up to 60 degrees vertically
• IPX-4 Protected against splashing water from any angle
• IPX-5 Protected against low-pressure water stream from any angle
• IPX-6 Protected against high-pressure water stream from any angle
• IPX-7 Protected against water immersion for 30 minutes to a depth of one metre
• IPX-8 Protected against continual water submersion in underwater conditions
For good quality bicycle lights, we would expect to see a minimum of IPX-5. However ideally you should aim for IPX-6 as this will be a decent guarantee that water will not cause any issues with your device.
Bicycle lights almost always include several modes where some kind of flashing pattern is emitted, be it with constant light or flashing on its own.
The legalities around flashing lights differ depending on where you live. For example, in Germany, flashing bike lights are not permitted at all. As mentioned above the stVZO guidance on bicycle lights is strict.
The research behind stVZO helps us understand what works well for riders' safety. Personally, I find front flashing lights very distracting, and the intensity of the cars' highlights doesn't change, so a constant front light is recommended.
There is much research on daytime running lights for rear lights, which tend to offer a very bright, slow, consistent flash. This suggests that, in theory, combining a constant bright light with a flash somewhat replicates a car's taillights when the brake is applied. Hopefully, this means cars see you first but also approach more cautiously.
If in doubt, place your lights on a constant mode in the brightest setting you have.
