Best budget cycling shoes rated and reviewed

Improving your comfort and efficiency when biking needn't break the bank. Here are 6 top picks from our experts for getting clipped in for less

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You have only three relatively small contact points with your bike: your saddle, handlebars, and pedals. Which makes these areas integral to comfort and efficiency, but ultimately your enjoyment. That is where the handlebar tape, shorts and the best budget cycling shoes you choose espcially important.

Typically, the best cycling shoes are designed to enhance performance, and no expense is spared in pursuit of efficiency. However, this can put a significant dent in your wallet. Fortunately, there is a degree of ‘trickle-down technology’ from the flagship models, and the 6 budget cycling shoes here have all been put through the same rigours as any of the more expensive options by our experts. In fact, our experts found that for many cyclists, the best budget shoes might be a better fit and more forgiving on your feet.

We’ve tested many affordable shoes and selected some of our favourites here. Which includes both road shoes that use a 3-bolt cleat system for effective power transfer and SPD models, which use a 2-bolt design. Like the best gravel shoes, these are also a good fit for commuters and touring cyclists, too, who, like off-road cyclists, need a shoe that’s comfortable and safer to walk in.

All of the shoes we’ve reviewed here are designed to work with the best clipless pedals (the type of pedals that you clip into, rather confusingly, but all is explained in our how to cycle with 'clipless' pedals and shoes guide).

Shimano SH-RC102 in black Best budget road

The Shimano SH-RC102 delivers on comfort and support, thanks to ample room in the toe box and a forgiving yet not overly soft sole.

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Giro Ranger Best budget gravel

Lightweight, breathable and comfortable to wear, with a grippy sole that adds to their gravel appeal.

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Specialized Torch 2.0 road cycling shoes Best under $200

It should be no surprise that the Torch 2.0 features in this guide. Nearly indistinguishable on the bike from our best overall, the S-Works Torch, the trickle-down tech and fit make the Torch 2.0 excellent value.

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Shimano XC-1 Best all-round SPD

A grippy sole that's great to walk in is matched to a upper that features a comfy single-sided tongue arrangement.

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Northwave Core 2 Best for comfort

A stylish shoe that blends comfort with performance; the vented sole is plenty stiff while the upper is unobtrusive.

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Rockrider EXPL100 cycling shoe in black Best for leisure

As one of the cheapest shoes we have ever tested here at Cycling Weekly, the Decathlon Rockrider EXPL100 shoes are surprisingly good.

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The black Shimano SH-RC102 road cycling shoes on top of greenary

Our expert review:

During testing, the Shimano SH-RC102 road shoes really impressed us, especially for long, hilly rides. They provide an excellent mix of comfort and stability thanks to the glass fibre/nylon sole, which helps prevent the numbness sometimes felt with ultra-stiff shoes.

While taking them on a tough 100km/60-mile ride in 30°C heat, I found they aren't quite as ventilated as some, even some mid-range shoes. However, the three-strap Velcro system was a real boon for easily adjusting the fit as your feet swell. I believe these shoes offer fantastic value and are the top choice for budget-conscious cyclists, even though the Velcro closure may not last as long as other closures, such as a Boa dial.

They might be a bit too flexible for someone who wants to work heavily on power, but for anyone looking for comfort and a quick setup—thanks to detailed cleat markings, often overlooked at this price—they're a great option. If comfort and value matter most to you, these are definitely worth considering.

Read our full Shimano SH-RC102 road cycling shoes review

Our expert review:

While the Ranger is the most expensive shoe here, I feel it still delivers plenty of value for money. Aesthetically, I loved the olive green with the gum sole, and the synthetic upper is both supple and breathable, thanks to the mesh panels. I rode in temperatures around 30 degrees Celsius, and our feet stayed pretty cool.

The three Velcro straps allowed us to adjust the fit nicely, and the choice of three arch support sizes is a bonus; I found the standard fit to be just fine.

A good gravel shoe needs to be comfortable to walk in and provide enough grip. And the Ranger succeeds at both. I found them the most comfortable of all the SPD shoes in this guide for walking, and the rubber outsole provided plenty of grip. There’s also the option of adding two toe studs per shoe.

Specialized Torch 2.0

Specialized Torch 2.0

Our expert review:

Specialized’s Torch 2.0 offers many features of the flagship S-Works Torch at a lower price. It uses a single Li2 BOA dial and Velcro strap at the toe. The shoe’s dimensions and fit match higher-end models, but materials and construction are simpler. I found that the Velcro strap at the toe has little purchase for adjusting the fit and is more or less ornamental. I’m not sure why Specialized elected to include it, but I suppose it at least looks like it does something. Otherwise, all Body Geometry features are present, and the inclusion of a carbon sole at this price is impressive. The sole design significantly reduces weight, allowing these shoes to outperform expectations.

On the bike, the Torch 2.0 is nearly indistinguishable from its S-Works sibling. The single BOA dial doesn’t offer the precision fit of two dials, but while riding, it's not noticeable because the overall shoe design does most of the work, transferring power. Comfort is really what sells the Torch 2.0; the deep heel cup and the stiff but not too stiff sole keep performance high without feeling like a ballerina.

At its price, the Specialized Torch 2.0 is an excellent value. It’s far from an entry-level shoe, and even at under $200, it can not be considered 'budget'; however, looking at it as a complete package, I actually much prefer them to the S-Works version.

Our expert review:

The XC-1 is the off-road version of the RC-1 featured above. It shares a few similarities, including the same synthetic leather upper and three Velcro straps, but it differs in a few areas that make it a great fit for gravel riding and commuting.

Firstly, the sole isn’t quite as stiff. It’s rated 5/12 on Shimano’s stiffness scale and translates to a shoe that’s really comfortable to walk in. This comfort is aided by a great heel cup and a grippy rubber outsole that’s well-suited to trails and sidewalks.

When it comes to fit, I found the toe box a little tighter than on the RC-1. I managed to get around this by loosening the lower velcro strap. The tongue design, where the upper slides over the fixed tongue, coupled with the offset upper velcro strap, made for a really comfortable shoe, with no pressure points across the top of the foot. As with the RC-1, I needed to size up, in our case, from our usual 43 to a 44.

Our expert review:

The Northwave Core 2 is certainly democratic when it comes to its sizing. Alongside the sizes 36-50 offered for men (including half sizes 39.5-45.5), there’s also a women’s version that runs 36-43 with the same half sizes and a junior version that starts at a size 32.

As for the build, it uses a carbon-reinforced sole with five vented sections and a stiffness rating of 8.0, which on its scale means it’s moderately stiff. The upper is made of a synthetic material and features Northwave’s seamless unibody construction, designed to enhance comfort and reduce pressure points. In practice, I found the design effective, although it required ensuring the upper Velcro strap was correctly positioned to avoid pressure building up on the top of the foot.

As for the fit, I found it generous enough that I could wear a thicker sock on cold rides without the toe box feeling cramped.

Other plus points include the shoe’s ability to work across different weather conditions. In the rain, they seemed somewhat water-resistant, while still breathable during hotter rides. Add the reflective detailing to the heels, and you have shoes that can be worn throughout the seasons.

The men's shoe is available in three colours: black with either a subtle grey heel section, a red or a yellow heeled version. The lady's shoes have a black front half, which fades to a white heel section with a flash of pink for good measure. The junior's fade from black to a bright yellow rear outer half of the shoe.

Our expert review:

The Rockrider EXPL100 shoe represents great value for money, particularly for a novice or occasional rider. The shoes look more like sneakers than dedicated cycling shoes. The sole has a trail running shoe tread pattern with widely spaced blocks that should shed mud fairly easily. It is a nicely grippy tread, and whilst it isn't a particularly stiff sole, it is comfortable to walk in.

Decathlon says this shoe is good for a couple of hours of riding, and I'd agree. After that, the laces start to be felt on the top of the foot a little, and lower down they don't add much support if one is out of the saddle and pulling up on the pedals. I did, however, like the lace tidy-away at the top of the sewn-in tongue. It stopped the loose ends from getting anywhere near the chain and front rings.

Overall, it’s a shoe that is well-suited to leisurely commutes or recreational rides with the family, where you’re likely to spend time both on and off the bike.

Cycling Weekly's team of testers has extensive experience in assessing and writing unbiased reviews of a wide range of cycling products. Since it all involves riding, shoes are central to this, and we've tested hundreds of different pairs literally.

We have testers with large feet, small feet, narrow feet and wide feet, so you can be sure that we've taken account of the differences in fit and foot comfort for a wide range of riders and understand what makes for a good pair of cycling shoes.

When testing 3-bolt shoes, the team uses the Shimano PD-R550 SPD-SL pedal with an SH-11 cleat (6 degrees of float), as it is not only a good pedal system but also an entry-level component that matches the shoes tested. However, this does depend on the tester's personal preferences for the pedal system.

For the 2-bolt shoes, the team and I mostly use the Shimano PD-M520 SPD dual-sided pedal, which has 4 degrees of float, as it's a great entry-level pedal that won't break the bank. I used the SH-51 single-direction release cleat, but there is an SH-56 multi-release cleat available for nervous new riders.

There are many other brands to consider (Time, Look, Ritchey, Speedplay, etc.), but your primary choice is still a 2- or 3-bolt type...

Regarding float: this is the amount of movement a pedal and cleat have when connected. This will really help your knees in particular. Unless you know otherwise (for yourself), start with a mid setting as recommended above.

Also, if you're new to clipless pedals, see our guide to setting the cleat position on road bike shoes here. You'll also want to check out our how-to on cycling with 'clipless' pedals.

Where possible, we always try to wear a similar sock for shoe testing, to have a consistent reference when discussing fit and pinch points.

Hannah might be an ex-pro, but running as many bikes and miles as she does means she always has to be mindful of the budget. Which is why an affordable cycling kit is always high on her list, that and she is not one to be frivolous or flashy.

Paul has been cycling for over 40 years; his motives are very much that cycling is an adventure, escape and ultimately for fun, and it shouldn't be taken too seriously. Which means he isn't waiting for the latest kit; instead, he seeks out value and high-quality parts, even picking up a welder himself to build his own bicycle frame.

There are three main reasons why you might consider riding with a cycling-specific shoe. Firstly, it will allow the use of cleats and clipless pedals. Secondly, once clipped in, more of your leg power is transferred through the pedal to the wheel. Finally, once set up correctly, your foot will be in the optimal position for pedalling.

Of course, you can achieve similar things with old-school toe clips (this is why SPD-type pedals are called 'clipless'), or you may prefer flat pedals with pins for mountain biking, as this can allow more dynamic movement of the bike.

Assuming that you're looking for a shoe to clip in with, we looked at some shoes that use the 2-bolt SPD type system and some shoes that use the 3-bolt SPD-SL road system. Broadly speaking, to decide whether to choose the 2-bolt or 3-bolt route here are some pros and cons:

3-bolt SPD-SL gives a larger clipped-in area so that more power is transferred and a more secure fixing is created. However, they are more awkward to walk in. Shoes tend to be stiffer soled too. Recommended for road use primarily.

The 2-bolt SPD uses a smaller cleat which has a smaller interface with the pedal yet still transfers power efficiently. It can be walked in more easily as the cleat is recessed within an outsole with grippy tread. For this reason, it is recommended for everything else and you can ride road happily with it too. As a consequence of this versatility, you tend to find a wider variety of shoe types too. The only other thing to be aware of is that often different pedal brands will only work with their own pedal and cleat combinations - pairing Shimano pedals and Time cleats won't work, for example. They all will work with either the 2-bolt or 3-bolt standard as appropriate though.

There are two shoes on test (dhb Dorica and Northwave Core 2) that can accept either 2 or 3-bolt cleats. I have assumed that they are a 3-bolt type primarily as to try to walk in them with a 2-bolt cleat would be very difficult. They would work as a group cycling class or turbo trainer shoe where you can take them off immediately. They would give you the flexibility to use in those contexts then move to a road setup when outdoors.

Beyond the obvious shoe size, there's a lot to think about when choosing cycling shoes. Even sizing isn't straightforward, as you want a cycling shoe to hold your foot steady to pedal efficiently, so you might need a shoe that's a half size down from your normal.

Carbon soles will be stiffer and increase pedalling efficiency, which is great unless you're expecting to walk in them when a little more give will prove useful. Likewise, they don't have any sole grip.

You also need to make sure that you have the correct cleat holes in the sole for your intended pedal system; either two or three (or sometimes four for Speedplay cleats).

Think too about the closure system. BOA dials are efficient but expensive and single dials may not distribute pressure as evenly as dual dial systems. Ratchets and Velcro are cheaper and can be as efficient. Laces look smart and save weight, but you can't adjust them while riding.

A highly ventilated pair of cycling shoes or shoes with woven uppers will keep your feet cooler in hot conditions, but won't be so good if it's cold and damp.

Finally, there's the price: how much are you prepared to spend? There's no substitute for trying before you buy.

Cycling is a forefoot sport. Whilst the foot itself doesn’t generate any power, all of the watts produced elsewhere pass through your feet. So not only do poorly fitting shoes create pain, but they can also limit performance.

A former British Cycling physiotherapist and bike fitter at the eponymous Phil Burt Innovation, Phil Burt told us: “If you’re in a wrongly fitted shoe, it would manifest as rubbing around the little toe, pain underneath the first and second toe, where a lot of people get numbness or pins and needles.”

Touching on the performance element, he added, “The foot and ankle don’t generate any power. All the power comes from your quad and your glute. But you can lose a hell of a lot through badly fitting shoes – for example, if your foot is moving around or over pronating, you can waste a lot of energy.”

The key variables when it comes to cycling shoes are the fastening system, the sole, the cleat style, and, of course, the fit, although that does depend on whether you've teamed with a pair of good cycling socks.

Of course, the failsafe is always check the fit of a shoe is to try it on in your local bike shop before purchasing (hopefully you'll make the purchase in the shop too!). It is better to do this in the afternoon or evening, as your feet can expand slightly during the day.